Gosky Metal 1.25″ Telescope Camera Adapter and Nikon T2 T-Ring.Astromania T-Ring and M42 to 1.25″ Telescope Adapter for Nikon DSLR’s.SVBONY T2 T-Ring and 1.25″ Adapter for Canon EOS Cameras.Celestron T-Ring for 35mm Canon EOS Cameras.Here are some T-Ring adapters for popular DSLR cameras: Most telescopes have an opening for 2″ eyepieces (or T-Ring adapters) and a 1.25″ adapter for smaller eyepieces or 1.25″ barrels. Now, you will need to thread the T-Ring adapter onto the T-Ring that provides a useful barrel to insert into your telescope focuser.ġ.25″ and 2″ are the standard sizes of T-Ring adapter nose-pieces, and the one you choose will depend on the openings available to you on your telescope focuser. The T-Ring should “click” into place when it has properly locked into place. Your T-Ring may even have a red indicator on it that you can line up with the one on your camera body. A T-Ring that has been designed to fit your camera body will thread and lock onto the camera exactly as a lens does. Step-by-Step Instructionsįirst, remove the camera lens that is currently mounted to the body of your DSLR. A flattener/reducer will usually have a diameter of 2″, and can be inserted into the eyepiece opening of the focuser drawtube. This accessory has additional glass optical elements inside to complement the design of a refractor telescope. This accessory was designed to “flatten” the field of view from the telescope, or reduce the magnification. It is common for amateur astrophotographers to thread the camera and T-Ring directly to a dedicated field flattener or reducer. This method involves placing an eyepiece between the camera body and the telescope using an adapter tube (eyepiece projection adapter).Īn eyepiece projection adapter for high magnification views of solar system objects. Yes, this means that you will be using the fixed native focal length (magnification) of your telescope to photograph all objects.įor higher magnification photography of smaller targets such as the planets or the Moon, the eyepiece projection method is best. If your goals are to capture deep-sky astrophotography images, you’ll want to use the prime-focus method that does not use an eyepiece or Barlow lens in front of the camera. This is the optimal configuration for deep sky astrophotography as it offers the highest level of security. Some telescope designs (especially ones that were designed for astrophotography), will allow you to thread the camera directly to the telescope using your T-Ring. My DSLR camera attached to a William Optics Zenithstar 73 refractor. The heavier your camera and accessories (imaging payload), the more demand it will put on your focuser draw tube. The last thing you would want is for it to fall out when your telescope is pointed upwards. Make sure that your camera is securely fastened to the focus tube. The eyepiece opening of your telescope should have locking screws that were designed to hold your eyepiece or camera in place. The adapter must be locked into place inside the telescope focus drawtube to avoid any camera shake or movement. Then, a threaded adapter can be fastened to your camera and T-Ring with either a 1.25″ or 2″ barrel (nose-piece).Ī SVBONY T2 T-Ring and 1.25″ Adapter for Canon EOS Standard EF Lens Mounts. The T-Ring must match the lens mount design of your camera so that it can properly lock onto it.
The prime-focus adapter is inserted into the focus tube of the telescope just like an eyepiece. Once you have learned the basics of using your telescope, you can explore the world of astrophotography by directly attaching your camera to the telescope.Ī DSLR camera can be attached to your telescope using a T-Ring that locks onto the camera body like a lens, and an adapter that threads onto the T-Ring.
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